| Today's homes are louder than ever and
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| | side of the wall to the other through
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| everyone would like things quieter. The
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| | mechanical paths (like studs or joists).
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| question is what to do? Obviously no one
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| | Instead, the vibration has to pass
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| wants to spend big bucks on
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| | through the air cavity between the studs,
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| soundproofing, only to spend time and
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| | where some of it will be lost, and
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| money in vain and still hear plenty of
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| | through the insulation/absorbing
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| noise.
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| | material, where (at higher frequencies)
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| Sound isolation is science, not magic,
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| | much of it will be lost.
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| and as such it is possible to outline a
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| | Principle #3: Absorption This is
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| foundation of basic principles that
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| | accomplished with simple insulation such
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| define soundproofing in any given
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| | as cellulose, fiberglass and mineral
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| situation. There are just a few basic
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| | fiber (wool). Exotic ($$) insulations are
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| principles that govern the sound
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| | also available. Foams are not a good
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| isolation of any wall, floor or ceiling.
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| | product to use for absorbing sound. Foam
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| Principle #1: Mass Mass impedes the
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| | is excellent for thermal purposes, but
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| transmission of sound in a simple way
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| | not acoustic.
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| – it's harder for the sound to
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| | Installing insulation in a wall or
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| shake a very heavy thing than a very
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| | ceiling cavity increases the sound loss
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| light thing, no different than saying
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| | due by eliminating/removing/destroying
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| it's harder to push a shopping cart full
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| | some sound. An important note is that
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| of lead bricks than an empty cart.
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| | insulation loses its effectiveness at
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| However, to make large changes in
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| | very low frequencies. Put some
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| performance you have to make very large
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| | fiberglass in front of a speaker at home
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| changes in mass.
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| | and you'll hear the sound drop. Put that
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| Principle #2: Decoupling Think of a
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| | same insulation in front of a subwoofer
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| typical wall. You have a stud with
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| | and you might not hear any difference at
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| drywall on each side. If you hammer the
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| | all.
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| drywall in room #1, that vibration will
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| | Insulation is important, but not very
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| conduct through the drywall, into the
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| | effective if it is the only technique
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| stud, and directly into the drywall of
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| | used.
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| room #2, where it becomes sound again.
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| | Principle #4: Damping This doesn't mean
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| This is a very rigid, coupled wall,
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| | moistening your wall. To damp something
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| excellent for sound conduction.
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| | is to reduce its ability to conduct a
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| De-coupling is very simply disconnecting
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| | vibration. A steel pipe conducts sound
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| this rigid connection by inserting a
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| | well; it is not well damped. Drywall,
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| space or something resilient like
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| | subflooring and most building materials
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| neoprene rubber between one layer of
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| | are not well damped. There are damping
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| drywall and the stud. Products are
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| | materials known as visco-elastics that
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| commercially available to do this such as
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| | can be very easily and economically
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| resilient sound clips and resilient
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| | applied between sheets of standard
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| channel.
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| | drywall and subflooring and are highly
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| If you are dealing with new construction
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| | effective.
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| you should really consider staggered stud
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| | Principal #5: Sealing Make sure to caulk
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| or double stud construction for rooms
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| | around all openings such as outlets and
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| that need isolating. It is generally less
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| | windows. Seal doors with weatherstrip.
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| expensive and higher performing that the
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| | Install duct liner in your ducts. These
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| commercial products mentioned above.
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| | all help to keep sound from entering or
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| These techniques all function by
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| | exiting.
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| inhibiting the movement of sound from one
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